Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
